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This recipe lives in the salt-spray between North Africa and the Mediterranean coasts. Wild red snapper, cut sashimi-thin and seasoned with sumac and lemon, gets a smear of slow-cooked tomato jam that's sweet, spiced, and almost meaty. A touch of rose harissa finishes it off. It's clean, fiery, and unmistakably North African while still reading as a crudo to anyone who's eaten one.

 

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